Change Makers III: Fashion Leaders Shaping the Future of Style in Athens
Influential fashion personalities at the international conference organized by Vogue Greece and Kathimerini
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Diane Von Furstenberg © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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The third “Change Makers” international conference organized by Vogue Greece and Kathimerini gathered at the premises of Megaron, the Athens Concert Hall, many great champions of fashion to celebrate the industry’s power, as a fertile ground for ideas, to open pathways to the future.
Participants reflected, and expounded upon, questions such as: how do we currently define a Change Maker? What is the current state of debate on inclusivity, sustainability and ethics? Does craftmanship have a role in the fashion of the future? Vogue Greece and Kathimerini invited industry leaders who have never failed to trust their instincts and work on their own terms, to share their values and their message.
Vogue Greece’s International Editor At Large Sarah Bailey, the conference host, welcomed an enthusiastic and super stylish audience and invited Vogue Greece Publisher Alexia Koronaiou and Kathimerini’s Managing Editor of Magazines and Special Editions Giorgos Tsiros to the stage.
Following a brief introduction of the Vogue Greece team through a short documentary shown on the Megaron screen, Vogue Greece Editor-in-Chief Elis Kiss warmly welcomed the attendees and officially opened the conference.
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Mary Katrantzou in conversation with Elis Kiss © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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The conference’s first part CREATIVE VISIONS: Heritage, Craftsmanship & Innovation was dedicated to the creative heritage that, together with innovation, leads fashion to its new era. The first guest on the stage was Greek Designer Mary Katrantzou, Creative Director for Leather Goods and Accessories at the house of BVLRGARI. Katrantzou had a discussion with Elis Kiss about her signature “digitalis” motifs that opened the doors of fashion for her. “Identity is the most vital ingredient in the fashion industry. I always try to find harmony in all the different elements that I bring together in prints. This idea of harmony and symmetry is deeply rooted in me as a Greek. I’ve always been very curious and I think that’s an element of the Greek spirit,” she said.
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Casey Cadwallader in conversation with Elina Dimitriadi © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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The audience enthusiasm was maintained by the appearance of the Creative Director of the house of Mugler, Casey Cadwallader, who carries on Thierry Mugler’s principles of diversity, body positivity and free expression of sexuality alive. Joining him on the Megaron Stage was Vogue Greece Fashion Features Editor Elina Dimitriadi for a discussion on the codes he instilled into the house of Mugler; the Mugler Creators Program that he recently introduced, providing scholarships to young talents in contemporary dance and music; and the power of our clothes over our lives and our ways of thinking. “I love people. I love helping them have fun while being themselves. If a high heel helps them to achieve that, then I’m happy. The most important thing is to respect and take care of yourself first,” he said.
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Sandra Choi in conversation with Alexander Fury © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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The third creative voice is also the ultimate shoe lover. Sandra Choi, Creative Director at Jimmy Choo is among the longest-tenured luxury fashion executives. Together with journalist, fashion director of AnOther Magazine and men’s critic of the Financial Times Alexander Fury, they examined the important role craftsmanship will play in Jimmy Choo’s future, the collaborations that, in several cases, have redefined the Jimmy Choo style and the changes Choi herself has implemented in her designing process. Sandra Choi described Jimmy Choo as a young adult who has now found confidence and feels free to create. The essence of the brand has always remained the same. She also added that she particularly loves vintage shops because all the shoes look worn and that is their purpose.
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Arion Spyridis (Minas), Yannis Sergakis, Ileana Makri, Elis Kiss © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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Change Makers III also served as a forum to highlight Greek jewelry’s modern storytelling, through a new generation of designers that’s now cutting its teeth in the global market. Part II of Change Makers titled THE GREEK FACTOR: Greek Creative Jewelry at the Forefront, invited Arion Spyridis, General Manager of Minas Designs, and jewelers Yannis Sergakis and Ileana Makri to the Megaron stage for a debate on the future of Greek jewelry with Vogue Greece Editor-in-Chief Elis Kiss. “Minas has always had a certain philosophy that we protect. Of course we add things and our own touch as the world evolves. There is a respect for raw material and people. We design with that in mind. It is very important to invest in the new generation to continue our brand philosophy,” said Arion Spyridis. “Not to focus on the local [market], but the Greek society should join forces and young creators should get out there,” Yannis Sergakis advised young designers, while Ileana Makri added: “They should be inspired by all things but also add their personal touch. The industry has a lot of competition and needs work”.
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Linda Loppa, Olya Kuryshchuk, Vena Brykalin, Alexander Fury © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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Sustainability, Inclusion and Innovation are leading concepts in fashion’s contemporary agenda. The third panel WHAT LIES AHEAD: Sustainability, Trends, Technology, Diversity & Inclusion was dedicated to fashion’s current challenges that shape the paths to change. Speakers included curator and educator Linda Loppa and Olya Kuryshchuk, founder and Editor-in-Chief of 1 Granary and Venia Brykalin, Editor in Chief Vogue Ukraine. They took part in a discussion with Alexander Fury, during which the touched upon relevant education programs at Universities and School of Fashion and Design. “If you know your customers and their needs, you can forecast your production. We have to be prepared to anticipate demand and not overproduce,” Olya Kuryshchuk said.
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Marisa Berenson in conversation with Filep Motwary © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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The Megaron stage was further brightened by the presence of iconic 70s supermodel Marisa Berenson, a star who defined a whole generation of fashion, with her ability to transform her face, chameleon-like. It was not a coincidence that she was called a muse; she inspired, among others, Yves Saint Laurent and Halston. She recounted that golden era and the unique experiences she had while talking to Vogue Greece’s Editor-at-Large Filep Motwary: they spoke about her legendary Vogue photo shoots, American and European designers and the crucial influence that her grandmother, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Diane Vreeland, who discovered her, had in her life. “For me, icons represent something sacred. To be called an icon is a really big compliment. When you represent that title you have to honor it. If you are lucky enough to inspire people, you should respect that and behave in a similar manner,” she told Filep Motwary. As for the unique 70s atmosphere, she said: “I think it was a period of great freedom and self-expression. We could express ourselves freely in the way we wanted to. I feel very lucky to have lived through that period. I see a lot of young people who would love to experience this time. It was a wonderful time.”
Vogue Greece shares with its readers exclusive reports from the frontlines of fashion shows. This time, however, in Part V, IT’S MAGIC: The Making of a Fashion Show, it turned the limelight to the key people that make magic happen while working backstage. How is a fashion show built? Who selects the soundtrack, the models and the front-row audience? Providing the answers were Alexandre de Betak, founder of Bureau Betak, Lucien Pagès, founder of Lucien Pagès Communication, fashion’s leading sound director Michel Gaubert και founder and Global Editor-in-Chief of 10 Magazine Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou. Consultant Emily Zak moderated the debate. “You have to have a full understanding of the brand and the moment. You make the rules on how you approach something. For me it’s important to make a show accessible and memorable to the audience, to have a connection with the brand. It’s important to remember where you are and what the DNA of the brand is,” said Alexandre de Betak. Lucien Pagès added: “I don’t want to see AI. I want the shows to have a real feeling.”
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Lucien Pages, Michel Gaubert, Alexandre Betak, Sofia Neofytou-Apostolou, Emily Zak © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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The next part of Change Makers III was dedicated to all creative voices that inspire and are the driving force of change, influential and innovative figures of modeling and fashion design that reflect all the attributes defining a Change Maker.
The first of the Creative Voices to grace the Megaron Stage was strikingly beautiful supermodel Cindy Bruna, supermodel, ambassador of L’Oréal Paris and activist, who, with her powerful expression, challenges beauty stereotypes and re-centers the debate to inclusivity in modeling. Simultaneously, as ambassador for French organization Solidarité Femmes, she supports women victims of domestic violence and is a powerful role model using her voice to support important causes. Cindy Bruna revealed details of her journey to Vogue Greece Editor Vlasis Kostouros. “It took me a long time to realize that my value is not determined by whether I get picked in a casting. You have to separate yourself from the opinions of others. You have to know that your value is greater than all of that,” she said. “Having a voice is our superpower. We can have a real impact.”
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Cindy Bruna in conversation with Vlasis Kostouros © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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The stage was turned to one of the most authentic avant-garde voices of the fashion world. Iris Van Herpen revealed to Filep Motwary her relationship with the body, which she experiments on in her Haute Couture creations, the role of technology and engineering in helping fashion take a step forward and also the feeling that is always present in the design process. “I like to think of my work as visualizing the invisible. I want my collections to be born spontaneously. For me these collections are the best. The concept comes very organically. I start researching on an element and usually the concept comes naturally,” she said.
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Iris Van Herpen in conversation with Filep Motwary © NIKOS KOKKALIAS
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The last glamorous invitee in Change Makers III is a legendary designer. The emblematic Diane Von Furstenberg in a truly empowering discussion with Elis Kiss. “When you are responsible for yourself and true to yourself, you are free. Growing up I knew the kind of woman I wanted to be, I wanted to be a responsible woman. To have a man’s life in a woman’s body. Responsible doesn’t mean aggressive. It’s a commitment to oneself. It’s the relationship we have with ourselves,” was the lesson in confidence she shared with the audience, commenting among other things that the wrap dress was ultimately what created her.
Vogue Greece’s Change Makers III has become an established presence in the world of fashion.
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